Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and visitors alike swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a prestigious roster of global cities and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it becomes part of a global network of more than four hundred urban centers across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "is a testament to its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and dynamic food ecosystem," as stated by a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this time-honored city is no surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, bustling, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is at last in the global gaze for what has consistently defined its essence: an profound love for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a continued discussion from waking up until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and elevated to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of culinary innovations, merging Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just showcases local ingredients but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on every corner, there are small establishments and carts – little-known delights that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in kulhads, along with fluffy buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a no-frills joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is precise and demanding. The vendor beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but express concern that their younger generation are reluctant to master the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will encourage more people around the world to explore these stories and experience the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.